What is the difference between the stages of polishing?
What does my vehicle need?
What happens after paint correction?
Note: This article is not a DIY guide. Polishing automotive paint is a highly technical and precise process that should be performed by experienced professionals. Attempting paint correction without proper training and equipment can risk permanent damage to your vehicle’s finish. At Toronto Buffing Inc., we take a no-nonsense, professional approach to paint correction to ensure the best and safest results.
At Toronto Buffing Inc., our philosophy on paint correction is different from most shops. Rather than offering a menu of “light” or “medium” correction levels for the customer to choose, we insist on delivering the level of correction the vehicle actually needs. Our experts will assess your car’s paint and determine the appropriate process to restore it to its full potential. If a vehicle requires a intensive multi-stage correction to achieve a flawless finish, that is the only service we will offer. We do not compromise on quality – if a client only wants a quick, lesser correction that won’t fully remove the defects, we will respectfully decline the job. This approach ensures every vehicle we work on leaves as close to perfect as safely possible. (Think of it like going to a doctor; you trust the doctor to diagnose and prescribe the proper treatment – similarly, you must trust the detailing professional to choose the proper correction procedure for your car.)
By insisting on the proper level of correction, we avoid half-measures that leave swirls or scratches behind. Lesser “one-step” buffing jobs offered elsewhere often fail to address moderate defects and can even introduce new issues like holograms (machine-induced swirls) if done improperly. Our skilled technicians and comprehensive processes ensure there are no holograms or buffer trails left in the paint. The end result is a dramatically improved finish achieved in the safest manner possible.
Swirl marks and holograms visible under direct light on a paint finish. Our multi-stage paint correction process safely removes these types of defects, restoring clarity and gloss to the paint.
A 1-stage paint correction – sometimes called a “one-step polish” – involves a single polishing step aimed at improving gloss and removing very light defects. In a one-stage service, typically a medium-cut polish is used with a medium polishing pad on a dual-action polisher. This combination can eliminate faint swirl marks and hazing and add shine in one pass. Different detailers may try variations of this process: for example, using a slightly heavier cutting pad with a mid-grade polish to get a bit more defect removal, or using a very fine polish on a soft pad to maximize gloss. However, any single-step approach is inherently a compromise. If you push for more cutting power in one step, you usually end up leaving micro-hazing or holograms that aren’t fully refined. If you go too gentle, you achieve high gloss but leave many defects still visible.
Realistically, a one-step polish is only effective on very minor issues: very light swirls, faint towel marks, or slight dullness. It is not appropriate for addressing moderate or deep swirl marks, etched water spots, scratches, or other significant paint defects. The depth and determination of "light" and "minor" swirls is something that only an experienced technician can determine. One-step polishing simply doesn’t have the cutting ability to reach deeper into the clearcoat without additional stages. Because of these limitations, Toronto Buffing Inc. rarely performs a true 1-stage correction as a standalone service – the results would not meet our high standards. In fact, we’ve effectively removed it from our core offerings due to the generally lackluster improvement it provides on anything but the best-maintained surfaces.
Even on lighter defects, a one-step polish can sometimes introduce its own slight marring if the paint is still hiding embedded grime. Despite thorough washing, tiny contaminants can remain stuck in the clearcoat. As the polishing pad passes over the paint, it can dislodge these particles and drag them across the surface, causing very fine scratches or hazy trails known as micro-marring. This is especially a concern on softer paints (often found on Japanese makes or jet black finishes). The result is a faint dull haze that prevents a truly crisp finish. Harder, high-solids clear coats (like those on many German vehicles) are a bit more resistant to micro-marring, but it can still occur to a degree if contamination remains. In practice, removing those last traces of haze would require an additional finishing polish step – which by definition goes beyond the single-step approach. For this reason, one-step jobs often deliver only ~85% of the potential clarity. Given these compromises, we typically recommend at least a two-stage correction for anyone looking to significantly improve their paint.(Side note: if your vehicle’s paint is absolutely brand new and nearly flawless, a very light one-stage polish might be sufficient simply to enhance gloss. But in most cases, even new cars accumulate some wash swirls or dealer-induced blemishes that warrant a more thorough process.)
A 2-stage paint correction is a comprehensive process involving two separate polishing steps (stages) using different pads and compounds. This is often described as a “cutting stage” followed by a “finishing stage.” The first stage is a heavy cut to remove the bulk of the defects, and the second stage is a polish refine to eliminate any haze from the cutting and restore full gloss.
During the Stage 1 (Cutting/Buffing) of a two-stage correction, we typically use a more aggressive machine/pad/compound setup. Depending on the severity of the paint defects and the hardness of the clearcoat, we may choose either a rotary polisher or a dual-action polisher for the cutting step. A rotary polisher paired with a wool pad and a heavy compound can rapidly eliminate severe swirls and scratches, but it requires skill to avoid holograms. A dual-action (random orbital) polisher with a microfiber cutting pad or heavy foam cutting pad is another method to tackle defects with less risk of swirls. In either case, a specially formulated cutting compound is used – this abrasive liquid essentially shaves down the clearcoat around scratches to level them out. We work in small sections and perform a series of passes until the majority of defects in that area are removed or significantly reduced (often doing a test spot first to dial in the right pad and compound combination). This initial compounding stage may leave the paint a bit hazy or dull-looking; that is normal after aggressive buffing. The aim is to level out the clearcoat enough that the scratches are gone, knowing that the next step will restore the shine.(It’s worth noting that after the cutting stage, the car often gets quite dusty from compound residue. We usually perform a quick rinse or touchless wash after the heavy cut before moving on, to remove spent compound dust from crevices. We then dry the car again. This extra step ensures no dried compound interferes with the second polishing stage.)
During Stage 2 (Refinement Polishing) of a two-stage correction, we switch to a finer polish and a lighter pad to refine the finish. Typically a dual-action polisher is used for this step, equipped with a medium-density foam polishing pad or a soft foam finishing pad. We apply a medium cut polish or finishing polish and work it over each panel to clear up the haze from the compounding stage. This polishing burnishes the paint to reveal deep gloss, eliminating any micro-scratches or haze left by the initial cut. After this stage, the paint should appear dramatically clearer, with clarity and reflectivity restored.
A two-stage correction is capable of addressing light to moderate swirl marks, many surface scratches, water spot etching in the clearcoat, and oxidation. For many vehicles (especially those only a few years old with mild wear), a two-stage can achieve around 85–95% defect removal. It’s a popular choice for brand new or lightly used cars that have minor wash swirls or holograms. In fact, for a brand new vehicle that’s in near-perfect condition (e.g. a 2025 model with only a few hundred or thousand kilometers), a 2-stage correction might be all that’s needed to get to a “better than new” finish. We often perform 2-stage corrections on new vehicles as a prep before installing a ceramic coating or paint protection film.However, even some “new” cars arrive with more damage than you’d expect – improper washing at the dealership or harsh transport can inflict deeper swirls that necessitate a 3-stage process. We’ve seen many brand new cars, even with under 2000 km, that required a multi-step correction because of dealer-installed scratches or factory paint issues.
There is a fine line where we must decide if a 2-stage will achieve a safe and excellent result, or if we should step up to a 3-stage. We never want to push the paint beyond safe limits just to avoid an extra step. In practice, during the cutting stage of a two-step detail we will not make more than two aggressive passes over the same area. If two passes of heavy compounding don’t fully remove a defect, that indicates the scratch is quite deep. Rather than keep grinding down the clearcoat in one stage (which could generate excessive heat and risk burning the paint), our team will opt to utilize an additional stage of polishing or sanding as needed. In other words, if significant defects remain after a standard 2-stage process, it is safer and more effective to move to a 3-stage correction to fully address the issue.
Our experienced staff can usually determine in advance, by visually inspecting the paint and taking measurements, whether a car will require two stages or three. But if anything unexpected comes up during the job, we adjust accordingly to maintain safety.Toronto Buffing’s overall approach is to use the least aggressive method that achieves the goal, but also to deliver a nearly perfect result. If a 2-stage won’t get out a defect without over-stressing the clearcoat, we simply won’t leave it at 2 stages – we’ll discuss with the client upgrading to a more intensive process (or in rare cases, accepting that a deep scratch may be left faintly visible rather than thinning the clear too much). This balanced judgment comes from our extensive experience in paint correction.
The 3-stage paint correction is our flagship and most frequently performed service. It involves three distinct rounds of polishing, allowing for the maximum safe defect removal and gloss enhancement. In many cases, this is the only way to achieve a truly swirl-free, show-car finish, especially on paints that have moderate to heavy defects or particular hardness characteristics. In fact, a vast majority of vehicles – even those that are relatively new – will need a 3-stage correction to meet the high standard of finish that we and our clients desire.What exactly is “3-stage”? It means we utilize three separate pad and polish combinations, typically categorized as two cutting stages and one finishing stage or one cutting stage and two finishing stages. The approach can vary depending on the paint’s condition and type:
In both approaches, the goal of 3-stage correction is to systematically remove defects while avoiding the pitfalls of lesser processes. By using three steps, we ensure that we’re never trying to do too much with one product. Each stage has a dedicated purpose: heavy defect removal, then refining out the smaller defects and compounding haze, then ultra-fine finishing for maximum gloss. This greatly reduces the chance of ending up with holograms or micro-scratches. In fact, when properly executed, a true 3-stage correction leaves no machine-induced swirls at all – the finish will be crystal clear in direct sunlight and under sensitive inspection lights.
What defects can a 3-stage remove? Generally speaking, a 3-stage paint correction can remove 90–95% of visible defects from a vehicle’s paint. This includes moderate swirl marks, most wash-induced scratches, oxidation, water spot etching in the clearcoat, and many random isolated deeper scratches (though the very deepest scratches that go through the clearcoat may not be fully repairable without touch-up or repainting). The 3-stage process gives us the bandwidth to tackle some defects that a 2-stage might leave behind. For example, if certain deeper scratches still remain after the first heavy cut, we might incorporate spot wet sanding (water sanding) before the second cut to safely level those spots down. Wet sanding is an optional technique used in some high-level corrections to eradicate especially stubborn defects that polishing alone cannot fix. Our shop is one of the few that still offers full panel wet sanding when necessary, though it’s always used judiciously as a last resort due to its highly aggressive nature.Because of the labor involved, a 3-stage correction is time-intensive – it can take anywhere from about 8 hours on a simple job to well over 30 hours of work for larger vehicles or severely damaged paint. We invest this time to ensure each stage is done meticulously. The payoff is a dramatic transformation: even heavily swirled, dull paint can often be brought to a better-than-new gloss. Many clients remark that their vehicle’s paint looks deeper and more reflective after our correction than it ever did in the showroom.
Safety and clearcoat preservation: A common concern is how much clearcoat is removed during such intensive polishing. It’s true that paint correction abrades away a tiny amount of the clear protective layer. However, when performed correctly, the material removed is minimal – typically on the order of 1–5% of the total clearcoat thickness. We are extremely mindful of preserving the paint. By measuring the paint and using the gentlest effective methods, we ensure the clearcoat stays well within safe thickness. In cases where defects are so deep that chasing them would compromise the clearcoat, we will stop and discuss alternative solutions (like paint chip repair or panel repainting). For instance, a scratch that has penetrated through the clear into the color coat cannot be fully removed by polishing alone; attempting to do so would risk clearcoat failure. In such cases, we may refine it as much as safely possible and then use touch-up paint, or recommend our panel repainting service for a permanent fix. Our goal is a perfect finish, but never at the expense of the long-term integrity of your vehicle’s paint.After the multi-stage correction is complete, we perform a careful inspection under various lighting to ensure no swirl, haze, or residue is left. The paint will have a crisp, mirror-like reflection. At this point, the polishing aspect of paint correction is finished – but there is one final step necessary to preserve all this work: applying protection.
Contact us today to request a free quote for our services. We are committed to providing our clients with exceptional value and unparalleled customer service.
Once your vehicle’s paint has been corrected to an immaculate condition, it’s crucial to protect that fresh finish. Polishing removes defects and leaves the paint bare and clean. If left unprotected, the rejuvenated clearcoat will be exposed to UV rays, water spots, bird droppings, road grime, and other environmental hazards that can eventually lead to new imperfections. To guard against this, Toronto Buffing Inc. offers a range of Last Step Products (LSP) to seal in and preserve the results of the paint correction.The protection options typically include:
A ceramic coating is a liquid nano-ceramic polymer that chemically bonds to the clearcoat, curing into a hard glass-like layer over the paint. We always apply ceramic coatings after completing paint correction – never before – because coatings will “lock in” the condition of the paint beneath them. A quality ceramic coating adds substantial benefits: enhanced gloss and depth, improved scratch resistance by increasing surface hardness, and excellent hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties. It essentially becomes a sacrificial layer on top of your clearcoat to absorb the brunt of UV exposure, minor swirls, and chemical etching, so your paint stays pristine. Ceramic coatings are very popular as a post-correction add-on because they can last years (anywhere from 2–10+ years depending on the product) and make routine washing much easier. We offer industry-leading ceramic coating products and will recommend the appropriate one based on your needs. Keep in mind, a ceramic coating amplifies the clarity and shine achieved by paint correction, but it will also amplify any defects left underneath – which is why doing the correction step properly is so important. We always emphasize to clients that if choosing between budget allocation for correction or coating, invest in the higher level of correction; a coating on top of a poorly corrected surface won’t look good, and down the road that coating would have to be polished off to fix the defects.
Our most popular coating package after paint correction is Ceramic Pro Silver Package. It is warrantied for 5 years, and includes coating of windshield, wheel faces, exhaust tips, and of course, the paint!
Paint Protection Film is a transparent polyurethane film that is applied to the painted surfaces to physically shield them from damage. Unlike waxes or coatings which are liquid and ultra-thin, PPF is a thick clear layer (around 8 mils) that can absorb rock chip impacts, resist scratches, and even self-heal minor scuffs on its surface. PPF is the most durable protection available – it can prevent paint chips and scratching entirely in the areas it covers. Commonly, clients choose to apply PPF on high-impact zones like the front bumper, hood, fenders, and mirrors (a “front-end PPF package”), or even the entire vehicle for maximum protection. Like coatings, PPF must be installed on a perfectly clean and corrected surface; any swirl or blemish under the film will be magnified and stuck there until the film is removed. For this reason, we integrate at least a 2-stage or 3-stage correction before PPF application. After correction, our PPF specialists carefully apply the film using precision techniques. Once cured, it’s virtually invisible. PPF is an excellent choice if your priority is guarding against stone chips or scratches – for example, on a new sports car or a vehicle with a soft paint that chips easily. It is a larger investment than ceramic coating, but offers a different level of physical protection. In many cases, our customers opt for a combination: PPF on the front half of the car (to stop rock chips) and ceramic coating over the entire vehicle (including on top of the PPF and the remaining paint) for gloss and ease of maintenance.
Choosing between these options depends on your goals and driving habits. We are happy to consult on whether a ceramic coating or PPF (or both) is better for your situation – we even have a detailed comparison on our website (see Ceramic Coating vs. PPF on our site for a deep dive into pros and cons of each). For many daily drivers, a ceramic coating offers a fantastic mix of protection and value. For clients who demand the absolute best shield for their paint and aren’t deterred by the cost, PPF is the ultimate protection (often layered with a ceramic on top for added chemical resistance). Both solutions will keep your newly corrected paint looking fresh and greatly reduce the chances of new defects forming during regular use.Finally, after we apply the chosen protection, we allow proper curing time as needed (ceramic coatings, for example, typically require keeping the car dry for 24 hours and fully cured for about a week; PPF also has a curing period during which the vehicle should stay indoors to let the film fully adhere). We then perform a last inspection and gently wipe down the vehicle. Your car’s paint is now not only corrected to a stunning gloss, but also protected for the miles to come.